Friday, January 4, 2013

Saving Face


While travelling around Latin America (and other places in the world) I have commented a number of times on the general lack of geographical awareness locals seem to have in their area of residence. There have been several occasions driving around Mexico that I have chosen not to ask for directions. I have come to this point for the following two reasons:      1. People generally don’t know where things are. And if you get out the map, forget about it.      2. People want to ‘save face’. Meaning they don’t want to appear to be stupid, so they give you some sort of mumbled directions even if they should have quickly responded “I don’t know”.

And so I've learned that asking for directions in Mexico is not a straight forward process. Often to overcome this dilemma I will ask for the same set of directions a handful of times from different people. I have noticed patterns in age, occupation, etc. that increase the chance of receiving correct directions from someone.

Puerto Progreso, Yucatan, traveling with Tom and Taylor
Example:
Just yesterday, while wondering around the rainy lowland city of Villahermosa, Tabasco I had an opportunity for direction inquiries. I had no guidebook, no map, just wondering around downtown sipping coffee and petting stray dogs. At some point I decided I should check out a museum or two. I had glanced at a Google Earth map before heading out and I knew within a few blocks there was a regional history museum. I ducked into a shop selling a variety of cheap plastic goods to ask where this museum was located.

In the shop there were three attendants and no customers. “Buen dia,” I said, “conoces donde esta el museo de historia?” The girl closest to me was about 17 and she gave me a blank look as she finished hanging a set of plastic combs on a hook. I didn’t really expect her to know as 17-year-olds don’t know much about anything. She redirected the question to the two middle aged women sitting behind the cash register. They discussed the question for 30 seconds or so and finally came to the conclusion that they had no idea there was a museum in the neighborhood and no idea where it was.

I smiled, said thank-you, and walked out of the shop. By luck, as I turned the corner, I was immediately faced with a large blue colonial building with “Museo de Historia” inscribed in the bricks above the door. Of course the shop attendants had not been in the museum before…many people don’t visit the museums in their hometown. Museum visiting is something you do when you have ample amounts of free time to wonder aimlessly and not for someone economically obliged to work. However, I still find it incredibly interesting that you can spend hours, weeks, months… years in a shop and have so little idea of the buildings immediately surrounding you. At least they didn't give me false directions!


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San Francisco de Campeche (Campeche), Campeche

Mural in front of Campeche

Comalcalco Ruins north of Villahermosa, Tabasco

The Rio Lacanja trip I had been planning for so long has finally come and gone. It was an unforgettable 8 days spent in the middle of pristine Chiapas jungle over the end of the Mayan calendar. We passed jungle covered ruins, crocodiles, multitudes of travertine waterfalls, and had to machete our way through vine covered passages. I have tons of video footage and I will be spending the next two days when I get back to Guadalajara compiling it into a 10-15 minute video. I can’t wait to get back!

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